Anonimo Toscano Libro Della Cucina—a Practical English Translation

Anonimo Toscano Libro Della Cucina—a Practical English Translation

Stuffed Peacock

Skin the peackock, keeping the head and feathers together and in tact. Pound peackock meat or other hen meat in a mortar with lean pork until it is a fine paste with spices with cinnamon, nutmeg and egg whites, reserving the yolks. Wrap in caul fat from the pig and truss. Boil very gently, and when it is cooked baste it with the egg yolks and roast on a spit or grill. When it is cooked, mince pork loin, add egg yolk and spices, and roll them into meatballs. Baste with egg yolk and boil, and then coat with egg yolk and breadcrumbs and fry. Serve the peackock on a platter, redress with the head and feathers, and garnish the platter with more meatballs. Place on the table, remove the skin and eat.

Flipping Tables -- Dishes that Changed How I Think About Food

Flipping Tables -- Dishes that Changed How I Think About Food

 

            Biryani is the quintessential dish of the Indian subcontinent, and there are as many different variations as there are communities that eat it. At its most elemental it consists of two ingredients and two cooking techniques. Rice and some kind of meat/vegetables/cheese/something are prepared separately, and then sealed in a pot with dough and cooked together. That’s about it, and although it is extremely modest in its most basic forms, it is a dish that can be elevated to the royal dinner table.

Odd Food—The Partridge

Odd Food—The Partridge

 The partridge is one of the Lord’s great offerings to the mouthal papillae whose responsibility it is to deliver electrical interpretations the collection of chemicals that make up the bird directly to the pleasure center of the brain.

     If you’ve ever applied a nine-volt battery to the apex or median sulcus area of said organ, you have some subjective knowledge that not all electrical impulses are created equal.  However, the partridge imparts other things well beyond its flavor that enhance its value:

In Defense of Cast Iron

In Defense of Cast Iron

Cast iron cookware has a bad rap. “It's heavy. It's hard to take care of. It rusts.” Some of this is partly true, but only if you suck at taking care of things. There are also fables about cast iron that don't help its cause when people expect the impossible and end up disappointed. It's not completely non-stick, especially at higher temperatures, just easier to clean than aluminum/steel/enameled cookware. You can’t cook every last thing in it, as certain uses degrade the seasoning. It doesn’t conduct heat well, just holds a buttload of it fairly consistently. I’ll address these points over the course of the post, but needless to say, cast iron can be rather particular about how it’s used. But the rewards brought by a well-seasoned, properly used cast iron pan are legion.

Odd Food—Brains pt. 1: Cogitations

Odd Food—Brains pt. 1: Cogitations

  I want to start off by saying, “I get it. Brains are one of those things that foodie (I hate that word...) douchebags can say they’ve eaten because it’s hardcore”. 

     Let me dispel that myth. Foodies are not hardcore. There is nothing hardcore or exotic about eating something that tastes really good, and there’s nothing worthwhile about eating something that tastes like shit and saying your palate is refined enough to find the miracle in it.

Odd Food—The Quail

Odd Food—The Quail

Regarding quail, I think the trickiest step for most people in the cooking process is slightly increasing the temperature by removing them from the poultry department freezer and placing them in the cart. The average format in which quail are delivered to the public involves completely removing their cavity bones (ribcage, etc.), flattening them out, and vacuum packing so they appear very much like a used, bird-shaped prophylactic that had been shot into the bag off an elephant’s trunk. Although they appear completely destroyed to the novice, in reality this unfortunate flaccidity is an incredibly useful state for the poor little things. 

Odd Food—The Game Birds: An Introduction

Odd Food—The Game Birds: An Introduction

 Unfortunately and unfairly, the game bird is taken as odd food by many, as we live in a four meat world: beef, chicken, pork and seafood. From a practical standpoint I think it’s fair to say that bacon is a fifth meat; although technically pork, it’s not “pork” any more than beer is a staple grain. I know too many Jewish people who don't care where Yahweh thinks bacon comes from, and are fully prepared to have their house caved in, family wiped out, and live destitute and covered in boils if he really wants to gets uppity about it.

Steak au Pov: A Cheese-parer's Guide to Life's Simple Pleasures

Steak au Pov: A  Cheese-parer's Guide to Life's Simple Pleasures

Lower-Middle-Class Coffee

I don't roast or grind my coffee. I don’t buy expensive beans, generally the preground grocery store Dunkin' Donuts variety. I’m a musician, my wife’s a teacher, and we’re raising multiple young children. Brokeassery abounds, spare time does not, and compromises have to be made everywhere. So while I'm not a connoisseur of coffee, I do know what I like. Not an acid tsunami, not watered-down mud, and certainly not burnt newspaper. None of these things. I just need my morning jump-start to meet basic standards: good, well-balanced flavor, proper temperature, and texture. And naturally, rounded out with an appropriate creamer.

Odd Food—Escargot

Odd Food—Escargot

 Escargot evokes a profoundly polarized reaction from diners and restauranteurs everywhere. It's understandable, in the sense that there is virtually no way to disguise the mental image or the actual image sitting on the plate in front of you. You are eating a snail, and you will have one of two reactions: either they are absolutely delicious, or completely, utterly putrid.
 

Odd Food—The Oxtail

Odd Food—The Oxtail

       There are several reasons people don’t eat oxtail, but they all generally boil down to “I’m a vegetarian”, “I’m lying about being a vegetarian”, “I’m on a fake diet for only tonight”, and by far most commonly, “erf...it’s...um...it just seems...gee...I’m sure it tastes good, but....”

       I have never understood the concept of not putting something into my mouth simply because it was flapping around in an animal’s poo at one point. If you can’t handle that, don’t eat a lobster or a shrimp ever again; that vein in the middle is not exactly a spinal cord, I hate to tell you. Calm down and allow me to dispel the revulsion:

Odd Food—The Compost Bin

Odd Food—The Compost Bin

 

Far too often we throw away things or compost what could easily be turned into deliciousness. It’s actually one of the great disasters of the modern food culture. We are taught how to properly clean a chicken, trim vegetables, and generally speaking find the tastiest bits of whatever we’re cooking and pitch the rest. To my mind this is not good cooking. This is bad cooking, and moreover, in the worst traditions of our culinary heritage.

Odd Food—Pig Trotter pt. 2: Basic prep

Odd Food—Pig Trotter pt. 2: Basic prep

Odd Food—Pig Trotter pt. 2

The plan:

You have no idea how excited I am just typing this. Marco Pierre White and Pierre Koffman described this as “the greatest main course of all time”. They are correct. There is nothing like it on earth or in the heavens above, but that doesn’t mean everybody will like it. If you don’t, there’s nothing wrong with you; you have your textures and flavors you like and that’s fine. Make no mistake, the trotter is offal—understand that going in.